![]() ![]() And the simplicity of the adjustment design is a big bonus when I'm doing night photography. ![]() Particularly good when I working in a strong breeze. A little bit heavier than a carbon tripod but I'll take the weight to help with stability. I have a monopod with screw mechanisms that tend to slip if I don't pay attention to how hard I twist.īottom line. Flip the levers closed and you are ready to go. Push the legs together then push down and the legs compress into the telescope tubes. When shortening the legs for travel you simply fip open all 6 levers. It is quicker to use and when you flip the lever you know it's locked. I prefer the clamp to the twist type mechanisms. The clamps seems to be a stronger plastic material then what was used on the U212. This is the same mechanism that finally cracked and failed on the U212. There are two clamps on each leg that compresses the fitting that secures the leg tubing. The leg length adjustment may be an issue as the tripod ages. The legs do not have spikes, which is preferred these days because spikes will not get through airport security. I can fold up the tripod in about 15 seconds and it's of a convenient size to strap onto either my backpack or shoulder bag. ![]() I've found after a couple of months use this is not really an issue and I've been able to provide a stable platform by adjusting the leg length on hilly terrain. e U212 had continuous adjustment for the leg spread mechanism whereas the 700DX has two slots at the leg head for spread adjustment. The 700DX costs about the same but is lighter though somewhat less versatile. I selected the SLIK Pro 700DX as a replacement for my SLIK U212 which lasted with heavy use for over 10 years. I do mostly outdoors work so I'd rather invest my strength in carrying an extra camera than a heavy tripod. Every shot you care about should be taken with a tripod. A tripod is with you to keep your camera stable. It's not clear how the leg "brace" is attaced at the leg end but I believe that's the adjustment fixture point.I'm of the 'heavier the better' school of tripod design. And the leg stud allows even closer use of the head of could allow use of the head on the leg with the leg sections collapsed, which might allow it to be closer to the ground than flattening the leg angles. The slotted end allowed limited movement out to a typical leg angle, when the leg was loosened further, it could be extended to flatter angles allowing use quite close to the ground. On the U-1xx series there was a "wingnut" IIRC that allowed adjustment of the angle brace between the leg and the central spider assembly. If replacing with a head requiring the 3/8" screw mount, there are bushings available which will easily adapt the larger head thread to the 1/4" stud. It's designed to allow movement of the head to the stud that can be found on the base of the center post or also on one (maybe all?) of the legs. You should be able to unscrew the head, turning it counter clockwise (looking down from above) but it may require some force to do so if you've never had it off. I believe it's the part marked as 0571 on the pdfs. ![]() The head is on a "standard" 1/4" stud, the same as used to connect cameras to tripods (as opposed to the 3/8" stud found on most "European" or "professional" tripods. ![]()
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